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Case Study Diamond Springs Water "Fingerprints on a Fleet"

Posted by Linda Chambers on Fri, May 12, 2017 @ 12:21 PM


Customer had contacted us looking for a cleaner/wax to clean their delivery trucks. Later they were still having what they were calling an issue to remove greasy fingerprints on their delivery trucks. But after finally asking for photos the true issue became clear.


Diamond Springs Water, a spring water company, was having cleaning issues in their Raleigh, North Carolina location with their delivery trucks. The products they had been using was not giving them the finish they desired for their customer image.

They contacted us through our website contact page.  With this message:

 "We have a fleet of beverage body trucks. We are looking for a cleaner/wax solution for cleaning our trucks. We use a portable pressure washer, and can siphon the detergent or spray directly on the vehicles. Can you tell us which product would work the best for us? "

What Products Were Used

We first suggested if highly dirty between washings to use our White Lighting and our Spray Wax. If not too dirty then to use the Blue Lighting instead. This combination would clean without harming the current finish, give a short term protective wax finish and the wax would make the subsequent washings faster as the new dirt would come off easily with the wax before a new spray wax coat was applied with the new final rinse.

We also suggested for their trucks that currently had a nice finish to use our Big Rig Brite that contains added water softeners and sheeting action to prevent spotting. Spray Wax would normally not be needed but could be used with it.


They ordered samples of the Blue Lighting, Big Rig Brite and Spray Wax.

Initial test washings went well but had specific cleaning needs for :

  • Truck chrome
  • Truck exhaust stacks
  • Painted wheels

For the painted wheels we suggested our stronger Brown Derby, but would have to be used carefully if used for the exhaust stacks if they are polished aluminum or chrome, to go with the White Lightning  or could instead try a Butyl degreaser like our Mighty Max both that would be safe for those surfaces . We also offered our spray  bottles of Stainless Steel Cleaner that also cleans polished aluminum and chrome.

They ordered samples of all three washes.

The testing went well and they followed up with two orders of larger sizes of washes plus tried the Stainless Steel Cleaner and samples of some interior detailing products.

Then came the last issue.

"Our trucks are primarily white with blue striping. We are having a hard time removing grease/dirt fingerprints from the roll-up doors. Do you have anything that may help?

We have tried, Blue Lightning, White Lightning, and Brown Derby, so far nothing is working.

We then sent them a sample of the Mighty Max Plus degreaser and that did not help. By their next email we were having a hard time understanding how none of the products they had tried was not removing greasy fingerprints and why would water delivery drivers have greasy hands? So we asked for photos B&A washing if possible of the fingerprints on the trucks and this is what we were showed;


Now we had a better idea of what was going on, oxidation! The white and blue paint on these older units had lost all the protective coating and due to the UV rays had faded and was chalking out the paint. The drivers where putting their hands in the white paint chalk and redistributing it down into the blue painted areas. The white paint was also running down into the blue just from rain and daily moisture.

Normal truck washes can not help or cure this issue. High Alkaline washes actually allow the exposed failing paint to be loosened up even more, as the ingredients in them are what are used in most paint strippers.

The only course of action is to properly buff out and remove the oxidation, then once a new paint layer is exposed apply a long lasting protective sealing coat or wax or if not enough paint is left to have the vehicles completely repainted and sealed. Once that is done then using our safe finish wash products, like the White or Blue Lightning and wax, Spray Wax, will keep up and extend the life of the new paint finish.

In the photos they also included one of a newer truck with this issue, water streaking.


Here the issue was a much simpler one. Water trails and spots like this are usually caused by hard water, by the washer using too strong of a soap per water ratio allowing ingredient solids in the wash to deposit during drying or by letting the soap solution dry on the surface before proper rinsing.

The way to figure this out is to examine when this is happening. If the wash is not drying before rinsing, and the dilution ratios have been followed then the hardness of the water used to rinse or to mix up the concentrated product prior to or during washing must be considered the reason and checked out.

You can check for hard water by reading the water report of the water source, every year by law this information must be posted or given out when asked for. You can also buy and use hard water test strips or machines that can be bought commercially.

Hard water can be remedied by adding soft water additives like our So Soft to the water, or mechanical means by putting all water used though a softening system. Sheeting action products like our Quick Dry can also aid in allowing the rinse to not stand but bead up and fall off not allowing water with trace minerals from drying and creating spots and tracks on the painted surface.

We suggested they look into having these trucks with the failing paint professional buffed and waxed or sealed, or if possible a new paint job. That once this was done to continue to use our safe finish washes and spray wax to extend the life of the new finish and if they are having hard water issues to get some of our So Soft and or Quick Dry if they did not want to install a more permanent mechanical system fix.

and Future Plans

Diamond Springs Water answered that they agreed with our assessment of the problems and would try a few of our suggestions and would be ordering more soap again soon. Thanking us again for everything we had been helping them with over the last six months.


Tags: Case Study

New Products this year

Posted by Linda Chambers on Thu, Feb 02, 2017 @ 12:06 PM

Here at GCE we have a number of new products already here or that will be coming soon.

First by customer request we added these first three products in January;

"Neutral Disinfectant Cleaner". So far we will have this in gallons only unless we get more requests for it in 5 gallons.

NeutralDisinfectant1gal.jpg The price per gallon is $20.00. This is an EPA registered product.

Next we got a true sanitizer, "Food Service Sanitizer". It is available in 1 and 5 gallon sizes.

FoodSanitizer1gal.jpgFoodServiceSanitizer5gal.jpg 1 gallons are $25.00 and 5 gallons are $120.00 and is also an EPA registered product.

For cleaning and polishing stainless steel in the kitchen or bathrooms we have "Stainless Steel Cleaner" that comes in a 16 oz trigger spray bottle for $12.00. It cleans and repels finger prints as well as general cleaning and polishing surfaces of stainless steel and polished aluminum.

We just got in this month a new restoration product, "Fire & Soot Remover".


FIRE & SOOT REMOVER is designed for the removal of carbon soot stains on non-porous surfaces resulting from fire and smoke damage. It will also emulsify heavy grease, soap scum, rubber burns, floor finishes, black heel marks, dirt, printer ink, and carbon deposits. It has excellent cleaning capabilities even at extremely high dilution rates. It is nonflammable and contains no hard abrasives. We have gallons for $17.00 and 5 gallons for $68.00.

This Spring we will be adding a new product line to our store:

Seal n Lock, brick and paver sealer system.SealnLocklogo.png

Be looking out for the information about a local event we will be planing this Spring to introduce this system with an educational training day. It will be an all day Saturday event for no more than 30 attendees.

We are also working to host a training day for Ready Seal Stain wood stains and our EaCo Chem masonry products.

If there are any other products you are interest in GCE carrying, just contact me and let me know. When we get enough interest in a product we will try to get it into our store.



Tags: new product

How to use a Spill Kit

Posted by Linda Chambers on Wed, Jan 25, 2017 @ 10:27 AM

This is the last of my series on Spill Kits. I have told you why you need one, how to put together one your self and now we get to the part of actually using them.

Here are the steps you need to take when you see or are made aware of a chemical spill:

1. Is the spill still happening? Ex: a value is open and chemical is spilling out, a barel tipped over and contents still inside is still flowing. Safely stop the flow first. Put on gloves if needed and stop the flow.

2. Has someone been injured by the spill? If Yes open the nearest Spill Kit, put on PPE and remove the victim. If no victim or if someone else can handle their care go to the next step.

3. Determine what has spilled; look at the container it came from, look for labels. If you know what it is and what spill kit to use move on. If not then start with a Universal or General kit until you learn otherwise. If you can identify it but do not actually know how to handle this chemical, go get the SDS and check it for what PPE and clean up measures it tells you.

Types of Spill kits.png

4. Once you know what it is and which type of Spill Kit to use if you have not already needed to open the kit now and put out the safety measures to keep others out of and away from the spill. Enlist others to do this if possible so you can get right to the spill.

5. Put on all needed PPE if you haven't earlier. If the spill is large, and more than one set of PPE is included and someone else is available have them get ready to help you.

acid spill kit.jpg

6. Contain the spill with supplied barriers; socks, booms, sand, drain covers, etc. Start with the highest hazard. ex: spill running toward a drain, electricity, road, stream, down a hill, etc. Choose the best route for cleanup according to the surroundings of the spill.

Using a spill kit.jpg

7. Once contained, meaning the spill can not get bigger, neutralize if needed. Ex: if it is an acid or corrosive. 

8. Once neutralized start to apply absorbent materials; pads, pillow, sand or other loose absorbents. Work from the outside edge inward. Continue until you have used enough to absorb all of the liquid or you have run out. If you have exhausted your supply and you still have a center of liquid move or put down barriers at the edge and start removing the absorbed materials while more supplies are found or until official first responders can get there.


9. Clean up using broom and pan, shovel or other supplies and empty into a clearly marked as hazardous, approved container for removal; bags, bucket, pail, etc.


10. Clean spill area once cleared of spill with regular cleaning supplies; mop, neutral cleaner, sponges, etc. and discard them as well as they could still have traces of hazardous chemicals on them. You want to clean with a neutral cleaner so you don't have any chemical reactions with the residue from the spill.

11. Once cleaned and dry, remove all warning safety measures you had set out.

12. Immediately restock Spill Kit or replace with a new one until you can resupply.

Tags: safety, chemical safety, spill kit

DIY Spill Kits, all you need to know.

Posted by Linda Chambers on Wed, Jan 18, 2017 @ 12:42 PM

Any contractor that works with and transports hazardous chemicals needs to also have with each vehicle that contains these hazardous chemicals a chemical spill kit to comply with OSHA standards.

Most contractors are unaware that they need to have or how to use a spill kit. Just like many do not have or carry fire extinguishers. But OSHA has standards for the safety of the employees and the public at large when it pertains to hazardous chemicals.

I spoke in my last post on what OSHA says what a spill kit is and what has to be in a spill kit, and in fact they are pretty vague on a number of points but I will not go back over them, just please visit that post.

Now as I said in my last post you can buy ready made kits but I will show you how you can make your own DIY for many times much less and still be within the guidelines.

Here again is the list of required items for a spill kit:

A warning measure; A frame floor sign, caution tape, cones, etc.

PPE for at least one person effective to protect them from the spill during removal. Gloves, glasses or goggles, mask, shoe covers, etc

A physical barrier to place around the spill to contain it, which may or may not also absorb, OSHA does not say it has too. Can be berms, bumpers, drain covers, even sand.

Absorption materials; Sand, clay, pads, mats, etc.

Removal equipment; broom, shovel, waste pan or scoop

Removal containers; can be the spill kit container itself, bags or other approved container.

Products to clean the area once the spill has been removed. Such as a mop, cleaner, sponges.

And that is it.

If you can not reasonably carry a kit large enough to handle all the chemicals on your own you at least need to have available enough to lessen a spills impact before the proper first responders and hazdardous material removal teams can get there. 

This could include using materials to contain as much as possible, block or close off storm drains, prevent running across a road, traveling into a waterway, etc.

Here is what I bought and put into my own DIY 5 gallon spill kit:

I used a white cleaned out 5 gallon UN approvel pail. Make sure it only contained as near neutral a soap as possible but a pail from something else like a Firehouse Pickle pail can be fine too, plus it is already red, or an orange Home Depot pail.

I wanted my kit to supply two people to use as a Universal Kit that could take care of a 5 gallon size spill.

Here are items I picked up at the Dollar Tree: a bag of cat litter, pack of 5 puppy training pads, 2 pair of safety googles, a plastic dust pan with sweep brush, a small sqeege, pack of 8 Nitrile gloves, a red and white clothes line (to use to rope off spill area) Bright red tape, Heavy weight zip storage bags, a small bottle of Lysol disinfectant cleaner, a pack of 6 absorbant pads. $11.00

2015-03-18 11.12.14.jpg2015-03-18 11.24.38.jpg

A stop at a Dollar Store for large sponges and zip ties, $4.00+ some change.

Then I went to Home Depot and got:

A two pack of N95 masks, a roll of caution tape, a caution sign (to hang on the rope), one pair of heavier Nitrile gloves if needed, and a 3 lb bag of Zep instant spill absorber and one bag of play sand. This was my most expensive stop and not all of the supplies are all going in. $32.00

Plus a few items I had lying around the house so they were at no cost. Total still under $50 unless you have to buy the pail, which I did not.

Here is how I put it together:

Got the pail clean and ready by labeling for the type, Universal and amount of chemical it should treat, 5 gallons.

Put the items you will use last in the bottom, fill up until what you will need first on top. 

So cleaning items in first: Lysol, sponges.

Then the disposal items: marked hazardous bags, extra zip ties.

The disposal removal items: broom and pan

The absorbant materials: the pupply pads, cat litter I had poured into an empty quart milk jug and marked with permanent marker, 2 Heavy zip bags filled with the Zep absorbor material about 1 lb each. 

Containment materials; Two homemade berm socks made from the cut off legs of a pair of knit tights fiiled with sand and tied closed. And another quart milk jug filled with more loose sand to use if the socks are not enough.

PPE next: Masks, Gloves and goggles all in their own baggies so you open only what you need.

Warning measures on top: Sign, caution tape and rope.

And that completes the kit.

If you would like a copy of my e-book How to make your own OSHA Spill Kit, email me at

Next Post: How to use the kit to clean up a spill.


Tags: chemical safety, spill kit

Spill kits, what they are and do you need them?

Posted by Linda Chambers on Wed, Jan 11, 2017 @ 08:30 AM

For my next safety blog to start of the new year I will talk about needing and then making a spill kit.

I have been asked many times by contractors, "Do I really need a spill kit? I one word, Yes. OSHA requries you as a contractor working out in the public to be responsible for the health and safety of your employees and the public at large while you are working while you are handling and working with hazardous materials. And unless you know for sure and can prove that non of the products you use to clean with are hazardous then I would plan on carrying a spill kit when ever you are transporting and using chemicals. 

To know what type and how large of a kit you will need you will first have to know what chemicals you are carrying at any given time, how these chemicals may react under multiple conditions and with each other if a spill was to occur.

Spill-kit-bucket.jpgAccidentSpillKevin Stokes2.jpgSweepUpSmall.jpg

According to OSHA; "A spill kit is a collection of items to be used in the immediate response and clean-up of spills, leaks or other discharges of hazardous wastes or other hazardous materials" (chemicals, gas, etc.). "Spill kits should be maintained in close proximity to areas where chemicals are managed or stored to enable prompt response to and clean-up of spills."

Spill kits will come in various sizes and types and a few are those that can handle anything. To know what you will need you first need to check your SDS's for all of the chemicals you use. Then from this information that will determain what kits you will need.

Here are the different types of kits:

Universal or General - These handle most non hazardous, non acid spills and as long as the kit is made to handle the volume of the spill, this in the type everyone needs to carry with any vehicle that transports chemicals. Even if non hazardous it is a good idea to be able to handle a spill on your own. 

Types of Spill kits.png

Oil-Only - Contains absorbent materials made for oils not water. (photo)

HazMat - These contain specialized PPE, absorption materials and removal devices above what a general kit would contain.

acid spill kit.jpgCalgonite spill kit.png

Acid -  Is a type of HazMat kit. These contain specialized PPE, neutralization and adsorption materials in addition to specialized removal containers. Note: Some acid kits are not made to handle hydrofluoric acid so make sure of the neutralizer you get. I recommend Spill-X-A or Calgonate.

OSHA guidelines lists the equipment types that must be in a spill kit: Proper PPE, materials to contain the spill and the materials needed to clean up and remove the spill.

Here is what normally needs to be in any spill kit:

Labeling on outside of the kit container, stating what type of spill kit it is, it may also state the size spill it covers but is not required.

A warning measure, to keep others away from the spill until removed, examples are;

            A-frame floor sign        

            Roll of caution tape

            Hazard cones

PPE, personal protection equipment to use while removing the spill;

            Gloves - hand protection - minimum  

            Eye wear - eye protection - minimum

            Mask - lung protection if needed

            Shoe covers - foot protection if needed

            Can include more when needed for type of spill example; a full face respirator.

Physical barriers to place around the spill used to contain which may not absorb the spill;

            Berm, bumper, sock  

            Drain covers or plugs, to keep spill out of drains and pipes. 

Absorption materials;

            Sand, clay, pads, or other materials to soak up the spill

Removal Items; Broom and pan or shovel, to collect loose soiled material for removal 

Removal containers;

            Bags, or other container that can be sealed to remove spill waste.

The size of the kit can vary as well. Always try to have and use a kit made to handle more chemical than you have spilled, but if you can not, try to limit or contain the spill with the materials you do have on hand. For instance if the only thing you can do is lessen a spills impact by blocking a storm drain, stopping it from travelling down hill or out into a street, do that until additional help arrives, like the fire department. Additional spill kits or other materials can be brought to the contained spill for removal as soon as possible by the first respondors.

There is one big point to this post that you do not have to buy a pre-made kit and there is no such thing as OSHA approved so do not fall for that sales trick. OSHA does not certify any specific brand of kits. But a kit may say conforms to OSHA requirements or be called an OSHA spill kit. But you can make one yourself some times at a much lower cost. That I will cover in next weeks post.

Tags: safety, chemicals, spill kits

Build your own First Aid Kit

Posted by Linda Chambers on Wed, Jan 04, 2017 @ 03:02 PM

At the beginning of a new year is a great time to go over equipment and safety items to be sure things will stay working right and that you will have what you need when that need arises.

So with that in mind for the next few weeks I will be going over these types of issues.


This week I will cover first aid kits. If you do not already have one, GET ONE. And for many of you that will mean having more than one. And as contractors, handling machines and chemicals everyday, the run of the mill buy off the store shelf, single person first aid kit is not going to cut it. Not even some of the made for companies kits from places like Uline will be perfect.

I will list for you things that should be in your contractor first aid kit for every 1-10 persons it will be expected to cover and with each additional 5-10 just do the multiplication yourself to up the numbers you need to have on hand.

One mistake many people make with a kit is to just toss in boxes of items from a store which can just over fill the space in the kit so that you stop putting in things you may really need to have with you. It is much better to have small amounts of a number of different items then a box of 250 band-aids! I suggest you go and buy a box or two of clear industrial grade zip bags in small sizes to put your supplies in, (3x4, 2x4), from a company like Uline. This way the contents will be protected, easy to see to find what is needed and you can store only what you need, taking up less space. But if not, using a box of zip lock snack bags can work. Buy medicaitions in individual dose packages if possible.

The size of the kit itself can vary depending on how many people you will need to cover so I suggest you gather the contents first and then find the container it will all fit in rather than buying a general kit and trying to stuff in the extra items that we are suggesting you should carry. I like hard sided cases vs. soft, to be more water proof and damage resistant. And my all time favorite is a DIY tackle box converted to a First Aid Kit. The only thing I would change with the one pictured is that the contents be in baggies so they stay clean and dry out in the field.


You need to cover the OSHA and ANSI standards for what should be in an employee first aid kit and build up from there. Here is the current ANSI requirements that covers 10 employees:

ANSI Z308.1-1998 – Minimum requirements for workplace first aid kits

Item                                                                                                 Minimum Qty

Absorbent compress, 32 sq. in. (81.3 sq. cm.) no side under 4 in.           1

Adhesive bandages, 1x3 in (2.5 cm x 7.5 cm)                                          16

Adhesive tape, 5 yd. (457.2 cm) total                                                        1

Antiseptic, 0.5g (0.14 fl oz.) / application                                                  10

Burn treatment, 0.5g (0.14 fl oz.) / application                                          6

Medical exam gloves                                                                            2 pair

Sterile pads, 3 in. x 3 in. (7.5 x 7.5 cm)                                                     4

Triangluar bandage, 40 in. x 40 in. x 56 in. (101cmx101cmx142cm)        1

First Aid guide                                                                                           1


Here is my list to add to the basics:

1 Pair of medical bandage sissors

1 pair Splinter Forceps


5 each - Fabric elastic adhesive band-aids in multiple sizes; 1x3, knukle, butterfly, fingertip.

1 Roll Gauze 2 in. x 4 yd.

1 Ace elastic bandage wrap 3 in x 5 yd.

2 pair Nitrile gloves 

1 Instant Cold pack 4x5 in.

1 Instant Hot compress 5x9 in.

1 tube of Insect bite ointment, spray or 6 wipes/towelettes

1 tube of Triple Antibiotic Ointment 1 oz. minimum

1 Bacitracin 1 oz.

1 finger splint

1 Bottle eye drops (for minor irritation or allergy) 0.5 oz.

1 eye wash 4 oz. (for emergency eye flushing)

1 Calgonate eye wash 4 oz. (If you use any amount of Hydroflouric Acid products)

2 eye pads/patches

12 doses Acetaminophen 500 mg. (can be packs of two or a small bottle of 24 pills)

12 doses Allergy tablets, Diphenhydramine HCL 25 mg.

6 cough drops

1 small bottle of Tums or antacid tablets

1 CPR shield/mask


1 digital thermometer

1 penlight

1 Emergency blanket

1 25g Tube Calgonate gel (If you use any amount of Hydroflouric Acid products)


There are other things that may come in handy you might want to include like blood clot powder or wound seal, or an elastic knee and elbow brace. Of course if you end up using anything out of the kit it should be replaced immediately upon returning to the shop, your office or home. Keep an inventory list in the kit and check it at least once a month to be sure it is complete. Having a different person do this at each of your monthly safety meetings is a good idea as it also gets each employee accustom to what is in the kit and where to find it. Something that could be needed with minutes count.

Here are a few places you can shop for supplies;




How to keep your enclosed trailers cool and safe.

Posted by Linda Chambers on Mon, Aug 01, 2016 @ 01:14 PM

In the heat of the summer it is hard to keep an enclosed work trailer cool. A hot trailer is not only uncomfortable but it can be down right dangerous.


A hot trailer can allow your employees to over heat if they are having to work in the trailer for even a short amount of time. You can have a fire hazard from things like vapors from gas cans, automatic combustion from chemical soaked rags or towels, The danger of equipment overheating  and catching fire and carbon monoxide poisoning from running engines.

Here are some ideas on how to keep your enclosed trailers cooler and safer during anytime of year but especially in the heat of the summer.

  • If your trailer came with only one rear door, add a second door or a few sets of small windows or vents that can be opened for cross
  • Install exhaust vents from all equipment to the outside. Exhausted_hotbox.jpgEngine_vent.jpg
  • Install at least one roof vent and if possible one with a temperature triggered fan. enclosed_ventfan.jpgtemp_controled_vent.jpg
  • If your trailer is a dark color, consider painting or buying one with a white roof to reflect the sun.Blacktrailerwhiteroof.jpg
  • Store gas cans on the outside of the trailer in a lockable cage. lockable_jerry_can.jpgDouble_lock_gascans.jpg
  • Store any gas or chemical rags in a fire proof container that you empty often to be laundered or trashed. oilywastecan.jpg
  • Consider installing a small ac unit to run while you are stationary and have your equipment running.  wall_ac.jpg
  • Install a smoke and carbon monoxide monitor inside the deepest part of the trailer. combo_alarm.jpeg
  • Have a fire extengisher close at hand to knock down a small fire before it gets out of control.FireExt-Grid.jpg

Please try to implement as many of these as you can to have a cooler and safer enclosed work trailer.

Tags: safety, enclosed trailer, keeping cool

GCE Celebrates 40 Years

Posted by Linda Chambers on Wed, Jul 27, 2016 @ 11:02 AM

On Friday July 22nd, in Norcross, Georgia GCE opened their location to customers and vendors to celebrate with a catered lunch to thank them for the 40 years they have been in business.


Michael Brown is the current owner of GCE having taken it over 12 years ago after working at the business for 7 years.

Of the invited guests were Mr. Charlie Turner, the original owner of GCE, Mike Schremel from CAT Pumps, as well as other vendors and local long time customers as guests for the company. GCE is an authorized distributor and repair center in Georgia for CAT as well as for Pressure-Pro and Mi-T-M pressure washers, General and AR pumps.


During the event, guests were treated to a catered Barbeque meal from Cue Barbecue, were given tickets for an event only drawing for prizes including; a gun and wand assembly, a 50 foot hose, an X-jet system and a General 18 inch surface cleaner. The customers that won these prizes were; Jason Gavin, Todd Reese, Jalal Roy and Robert Stone. Guest also left with a small goodie bag of items that included a GCE cap, coozie, pen and a gift card to use on a future purchase in the store.



Over the years GCE has grown from a chemical equipment installation and service company to a full service business with includes; a store front, selling pressure washing equipment, machines, surface cleaners, reclaim units, parts, accessories. With the recent purchase of Soap Warehouse, they have expanded their chemical lines from a few dozen to a complete line of over 100. They also stock products from EaCo Chem and Ready Seal. GCE oporates a full time equipment installation and repair shop for off site and in house work and employ's two full time outside salesmen that cover Atlanta and travel the US.



With GCE having already surpassed previous years sales during the first half of 2016 and with Michael looking for a larger space for GCE to expand, it is very possible that they could see another 40 years in their future.

Tags: Anniversary, celebration, Georgia Chemical Equipment, GCE

Pinterest, Why should you bother with it?

Posted by Linda Chambers on Thu, Jul 14, 2016 @ 11:54 AM

Here are some recent facts about Pinterest:


Women like a clean apearance to thier home, they will either pester their man to get it done or will look to hire someone because the husband does not have the time to look or do the cleaning themselves.

The higher the income of the family the more likely they will hire out home maintenance to a professional.


This is why you need a blog, either a stand alone, as part of your website, or posts you make on other sites, like blogs with organizations. Blogging brings viewers.

You need a place to lead followers to, not just to a website page.

So if you are a house or roof washing contractor, a window washer or landscaper, Pinterest would be a great media to use. Set up your business page with at least 10 boards, the space that takes up most peoples screen with two full lines of boards.

Select Board names that are clear, concise and will either appeal to a wide audience or gives specific information about a service with good visuals. Use good key words in the post with a link leading the viewer to a blog or website page about what they are seeing, a landing page to fill out for a quote, or to videos and testimonials, they get good results.

Example: House Washing or any service you provide (one board per type), Home Exteriors or Beautiful Homes, B & A Photos, Certifications & Organizations, Videos or Our Work in Action, Blog Posts or From our Blog, Testimonials or Our Customers, Cleaning Tips, along with some fun boards as well like, Quotes, Fun Facts, Places I have been, Home Design, Home Projects, Cool Hacks, a hobby, sports team, or other topic you personally like.

The fun boards can bring you in like minded people that can then see what you do. People looking already for the services you provide can get more information and additional ways to contact you.

You need to be sure when you make a photo to use for your pin that you have named it with a relevent name, do not leave it as 0715161, but something like Lawrenceville30046housewash71516. This gives you added SEO for the city, the zip code the service type as well as the qualifier of the date taken.

Here are our Pinterest stats just from the last week and averages per month..


Now yes it can be hard sometimes to figure out how many new customers or sales came from these viewers and vists but by asking people how they found us, I can say that Pinterest brings people to the website which hosts our blog and in turn is a large contributing factor in our over all social media presence. You can see the difference between the days I may not have added pins, the days of the week I am not at work to post. The more you engage the more that engagement will bring you new viewers which in turn gives you the chance to get them into your sales funnel.

Find Boards from posters you like and follow them, then their followers can find you as well. 

I hope to see more of you on Pinterest with filled out content.


Tags: Social Media, Pinterest, Blogging, content marketing

How to calculate dilution ratios, Again.

Posted by Linda Chambers on Thu, Feb 25, 2016 @ 12:20 PM

Some have said my post a few years back about how to calculate the dilution ratio of a pressure washer to use to figure soap use was too complected and I had directed people to an online calculator to do the math. Well I will attempt again to explain how to do all the math you would need to do to figure out how much soap to use for a job. At least to start with. Other factors may require tweaks from the calculated numbers.

So let's first start with your machine. Say it is a 5 GPM unit. We first need to check to be sure that is accurate. (You should continue to do this every few months to be sure it is staying where it should be.)

To check flow rate for 1 minute to see how many GPM your washer is currently putting out. Use a container that can measure gallons on the side and fill it for a straight 1 minute full open. This should be done with the tip you will be using on the end of your wand. Let us say you have a perfect machine and you get a full 5 gallons in that one minute.

Now take a gallon container that can measure by ounces on the side and fill it with water and drop in your downstream line (normally this would go straight into your concentrated soap or soap mix)

Turn on and draw the water from the container for 1 minute. This will show you have many ounces per minute you are drawing. Let us say you got 40 ounces.

Now we take those amounts that you got and run the numbers.

5 GPM is 128 (ounces in a gallon) x 5 = 640 in one minute.

Draw rate from your minute test (it was 40)

640/40 = 16. 15 parts water to 1 part chemical so you have a 1:15 ratio.

Next the soap you want to wash with has a starting recommended ratio to use of 1:35 with cold water so you need to know how much water are you going to add per gallon of your soap to make your mix for your machine to deliver the 1:35 ratio out the wand.

Now comes your fraction lesson.

You need to find X;   1/15 = X/35.  So divide 15 into 35 and you get 2.3.

cross multiplication 1x35=35/15=2.3


 So you will add 1.3 gallons of water to the 1 gallon of soap concentrate so you end up with a total volume of 2.3 gallons this is what you will drop your hose into to draw the soap to get the 1:35 ratio.

So what if your soap reservoir can only hold one gallon? 

More math! You turn the gallons into ounces 2.3 gallons is 294.4 ounces.

294.4/128 = 128 (the single gallon of your reservoir)/X

Cross multiplication again. 128x128= 16384/294.4=55.65 ounces. 

That is how much concentrated soap you will put into the gallon reservoir topped off with water to still give you the 1:35 ratio out the wand.

 So you start to wash and it is cold outside, the surface is dirtier than you thought, etc. and the soap is just not cutting it. I always suggest going up in 10% increments at a time until the soap is working. So for this mix I would add another 5-6 ounces of soap to the reservoir once their is room. 

Or if the opposite is happening and you find that the soap is cleaning gang busters then increase the amount of added water by 10% at a time until it is not as effective. So for this gallon reservoir that would mean to add 13 ounces of water, when the level got low enough, and see how that was cleaning. 

Once your soap has reached it's effectiveness, using a higher concentration of it is just wasting soap, not increasing the effectiveness of your cleaning so try to not waste soap.

And remember using warmer water will reduce the amount of soap you will need, since the heat increases the efficiency of the soap up to half as much.

If you have any questions about ratio calculations just give me a call. 800-762-7911.












Tags: chemical dilution ratios, dilution ratios,

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